A Man’s Shirt

The first priority for the JAFA outfits is my SO’s entire outfit. First of which is always a shirt. His shirt will be a bleached pure linen shirt, as he wants me to aim for historical accuracy where possible.

I started off with a pattern from another blog, but I couldn’t work out the sizing of the individual pieces at all. In the end, I used a combination of patterns from that blog, Everyday Dress of Rural America, 1783-1800 by Meredith Wright and Costume Closeup: Clothing Construction and Pattern 1750-1790 by Linda Baumgarten & John Watson

The construction was pieced together from instructions, descriptions and images of finished pieces, and a healthy dose of remembering how my chemise went together, as well as some “I guess it’ll look okay if I do this…” In the end, it has gone together fairly simply, although in hindsight I have made a few errors (such as the order of flat-felling) and there’s a few things that aren’t as neat as they could be. Live and learn.

We decided to go for a very simple shirt, so there are no ruffles on this one, and nothing special.

For an added personal touch, I have hand-sewn the entire shirt, and flat-felled every seam.

Shirt collar

First thing I did was to attach the collar and the neck gussets, and then flat-fell those seams.

Shirt sizing

Then I attached the sleeves and the gussets (and got so excited that I had to try it on… It is beyond massive on me)

Finished sleeve gusset

Then I flat-felled the sleeves and gussets (in the wrong order as it turned out, but hey, it doesn’t look bad)

And then attach the cuffs, and sew up the sleeves.

And then attach the cuffs, and sew up the sleeves.

From there, I stitched and flat-felled the side seams, and hemmed all the raw edges (cuffs, neck opening, and side openings) and finally hemmed the shirt around the bottom.

Then, I covered some buttons in linen, and sewed buttonholes at the cuffs, and at the throat. To finish, I hand washed the shirt and dried it in full sunlight, which sunbleached it for me. The above was written January 16, it has taken me until now to finally finish the last two buttonholes… there are so many buttonholes in my projects.

The finished shirt

The finished shirt

Closeup of the neck and collar - and button placement

Closeup of the neck and collar – and button placement

Here is the handsome recipient wearing the finished shirt.

My SO in his shirt. Showing the length of the shirt.

My SO in his shirt. Showing the length of the shirt.

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